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| Am I doubting most lab girls look this good? |
Well
this is going to be a pretty heavy post but I feel like it is something that
has to be done before I go on. After the BB cream post, a few questions popped
up about what to look for when you are looking for a “good” moisturizer. I am
not going to address any anti-aging really because that would take me the next
month of Sundays, with all the different types and new and better types coming
out all the time. This is just the rule of thumb for basic moisturizing and
skincare; things to look for in your anti-aging products.
Things to look for:
Hyaluronic Acid (or Sodium Hyaluronate)
If you look for anything, look for this in your skin
products. This is a molecule that supposedly holds 1000 times its weight in
water and is naturally present in the skin. How does this help me then, you
say? Well in dry climates, like where I live I find the majority of people are
dehydrated. “Oh, but I drink, like, a ton of water” they say. Not enough. The
beauty of this is that not only is it something that no one is allergic to, but
it is beneficial to all skin types, especially oily. Retaining more water in
the skin allows the skin to be less stressed, which can often mean less oil,
redness and the skin is less easily irritated. As well, having more water in
the skin, plumps out the wrinkles; any “instantly reduced wrinkles” results you
see from a product are probably from this little guy. It is now commonly used
as an injection for wrinkles now instead of Botox, if that gives you any
indication of the power. And because it holds 1000 times its weight in water,
it allows longevity; you don’t feel as dry as fast as you normally would. It
can now be found in almost every cosmetic product from eye cream to foundation,
and there is really no reason why not, so double up! ‘Nuff said. If you want to
see the power of this, try this cloth mask; fabulous for everyone if you don’t mind
looking like Jason from Friday the thirteenth for a bit:
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| This mask contains 0.15% of pure hyaluronic acid! |
Is a humectant; meaning, again it helps retain water in the
skin. It draws moisture into the skin and helps prevent dryness. Again water is
one of the major components most people’s skin is lacking. It is often the base
of a lot of oil-free and gel moisturizers.
pH-Neutral
A neutral pH helps the skin not to be stressed, especially by
the cleansing process. Dramatic changes in pH put stress on the skin causing
you to break out, produce more oil, redness and possibly even rashes. The whole
idea of looking after your skin is calm and balance it, so why throw it so far
out of whack?
Antioxidants
Now this one is somewhat difficult because there are all
sorts of different antioxidants. The logic is sound; they basically are aging
prevention, by preventing damage from free radicals ie. Pollution, smoke, UV,
etc. This is a fairly new topic of discussion and it is thought that antioxidants
might help to prevent cancer and even enhance your sun protection. Not a bad
thing at all to have in your moisturizer. It is pretty inconclusive also what
is the best form of antioxidant protection, but generally agreed on ones are
vitamins A, C, and E, also Selenium, and polyphenols; antioxidants found in
berries, fruits, green tea, wine, and chocolate. You can eat them too if you
like!
Shea Butter
Now this is something to look for if you have drier skin or
in body creams. It is made from a nut from an African tree, but it is collected
much like coconut oil, so people with nut allergies are not allergic. It brings
back essential fatty acids to the skin and also helps bind it with water. It
also is easily and quickly absorbed into the skin ideal for skin creams. It is
also purported to have anti-inflammatory and humectant properties. It is really
great for people with eczema.
Natural Oils
This one is a little tricky also, because depending on your
skin type, different oils may be used in varying amounts for different
conditions. Jojoba seed oil for instance is great for oily/combination skin as
an oil controlling moisturizer because it mimics our natural oil. Macadamia and
sunflower oil is full of fatty acids including omegas. Avocado oil is high in
vitamin E and is highly moisturizing. The take away here is that natural oils
are more easily absorbed and used by the skin.
Sunscreen (For Day!)
Look for natural, physically blocking sunscreens ie. Titanium
dioxide, zinc oxide, etc. or chemically stable sunscreens such as Mexoryl that don’t
react with the skin and lasts longer. Read why sunscreen is a good idea on my
sunscreen post.
Things you May not Want:
Are petroleum by-products produced from the production of
oil and gas that is basically Vaseline. It is cheap and easily sourced and is
used as filler in many cosmetics. It is not absorbed by the skin. It has been
argued that if contaminated it can release chemicals into the skin. There are
many arguments about whether it is harmful to the body or not. The main factor
is because it is not absorbed, it sits on top of the skin, blocking the pores.
In acne-prone skin this causes break outs and in dry skin it causes uneven
texture. And it is just really not a very good moisturiser because it doesn't put
any oil or water back into the skin. The “bounce back” effect of dryness is
often caused by these. It does create a barrier to protect the skin, but
contrary to popular belief, it doesn't heal. It is inert and no one has
allergies to it, which is its advantage over natural oils but it doesn't give
anything back to the skin to help it begin to calm down. And there are other
alternatives. This is my favourite if I am having something major like an
allergy or sunburn (heaven forbid!), it’s from La Roche Posay, and if anyone is
allergic to it I am a monkey’s uncle. It is in a hermetically sealed container,
beat that nasty Vaseline.
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| Toleriane Ultra 0% preservative / paraben / fragrance / alcohol / colorant / lanolin |
Parabens
So I was wondering if I wanted to even tackle this debate or
not. Parabens (methylparaben, ethylparaben, propylparaben, and butylparaben) are
preservatives used in products to keep them from contracting bacteria and
fungus (eww). There is some evidence that these preservatives mimic estrogen
which is what most of the debate is about. They are acceptable in cosmetics in
Canada (which generally has pretty high standards btw) up to 25% but are
generally used in levels of 0.01% to 0.1%. So the exposure is really low but
you may want to limit your exposure. In some products, it is really difficult to
not use parabens because the bacterium happens easily and an alternative hasn’t
been invented. Previous preservatives for these products were formaldehyde and
no one wants to go back to that. I have problems with skin infections related
to bacteria, so I am willing to risk it for some things, but I try and limit
how much I come into contact with it. That’s as far as I am going to dive into
the debate, make up your own mind. Natural products are often preserved with
rosemary extract.
Fragrance
So this one is more personal preference to me. Yes, fragrance
can be an irritant to the skin, but it seems to depend on the type of
fragrance. Fragrance related headaches are more sensory overload then an actual
allergy. Obviously, if you are having any obvious skin conditions; Eczema,
burn, cut, rash of any kind, etc. limiting all potential irritants is
important. Personally, fragrance adds a bit of luxury to my skin products that
I enjoy after years of dermatology products with nasty smells. I do try and
stick with more natural derived products that don’t seem to irritate my skin
like some chemical fragrances.
So that’s a long enough list for me. I know there are many
more preservatives out there to be concerned about, but this should help you on
your journey to proper skin care. Did I stuff you with enough information? “What
the heck should I put on my face then?” you ask. Well I use a lot of
dermatology products (obvs La Roche Posay) because they are quality skin bang
for your buck. I have also been using a lot of natural products lately (they
have come a long way!), mostly from Korres, which also comes with a handy chart
of what it does and does not have for easy reference. I am using the Pomegranate Moisturiser and Toner, but I also have been loving the cleansers, and they do
make stuff for drier skin types.
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| Korres! + it smells heavenly |
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| Handy, dandy chart on Korres products |
So what did I miss?
Do you agree with me about Parabens?
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